Oct 2616 min read

Affordable Chairman's Selection Wines

Dear friends,

See below this new review of wines presently available mostly in the Chairman's Selection section of the Pennsylvania state stores. The last post had a prevalence of high ratings with Spanish wines. This one shows Chateauneuf-du-Pape at the top. We have a good opportunity to get to know these wines at a discounted price. However, they are still not that affordable. Therefore, this post will be showcasing other wines with lower prices that are still pretty good. Carodorum from Toro is a great powerful wine at an amazing price and I have introduced some non-Chairman's white wines from the Loire Valley as well as some Balkanic reds that I hope you will enjoy.

Needless to say, if you have any comment or question send me an email. Wine tasting and rating has objective and subjective preference components and I love contrasting opinions.

Cheers!

Ricardo Llovet

Domaine Durieu, Lucile Avril 2021, 80% Grenache, 15% Shiraz, 3% Mourvèdre, 2% Cinsault, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

As I opened it the aroma was shy to come out. This wine was “secretive”. The first impression was “alcoholic”. After lots of stirring I got ripe red cherry, red licorice, possible ripe strawberry, Mediterranean herbs and black pepper. I decided to let it breath for a couple of hours before drinking.

I experienced an explosion of freshness in the attack with a minimal but real dash of sweetness. Slightly drying tannins in an unctuous envelope, big body with clean and moderately long aftertaste.

The more time elapsed it became better and it was delicious by the end of the evening.

The ripeness and alcohol content made me think of a hot vintage that could be normal variability from year to year or the effect of climate change. This vintage has been identified as the best since fabulous 2016.

96 pts. JS

$36.99 15.5% Alcohol My Rating: 94 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Paul Autard 2019, 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

I was introduced to this wine in the Friday’s tasting at the wine store in Centre Ave. I liked it so much that, although from a mediocre vintage and outside my usual pricing range, I got one.

Intense and deep aroma of red currant, ripe blackberries and blackberry pie with Mediterranean herbs, cigar box and brick notes. Alcoholic.

This wine filled up Sally’s and my mouth with full body and plush structure. The thick tannins were only slightly astringent. Pasty.

The acidity presented itself as sparks in my mouth coming back and again in a pleasant and fulfilling way and providing a feeling of freshness. Very long, deep and fresh finish.

This wine has a lot going on and a wonderful equilibrium between fresh and aged, aroma and bouquet.

This is a rare case in which my rating is higher than the expert’s.

92 pts. WS

$39.99 14.5% Alcohol My Rating: 93 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

See below some pictures from Châteauneuf-du-Pape's terroir with its typical rolling stones and nearby Avignon:

Carodorum 2019, Tempranillo, Toro

Visual: Opaque with profuse, thick and colored legs. Just its look promised a full body, tannic, alcoholic wine.

Aromas: Dark cherries and berries complemented with subtle and precise vanilla and chocolate and creampastry notes from its 15 months of aging in French oak. I also noticed some turmeric in there.

Mouth feel: And the promise was fulfilled! Thick structure with lots of pasty and drying tannins that, with their evolution throughout the evening, took us to a long trip towards depth and bouquet

Taste: Full of flavor. A Tempranillo with little similarity to a Rioja. I’d say just the opposite.

Aftertaste: Deep and long.

Comment: This is an “author wine” crafted with indigenous ungrafted over 60 years old vines. It reminded me of some interesting Tempranillos I have been getting lately from WA and Australia.

94 pts. WE

$15.99 15% Alcohol My Rating: 92-93 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

See below some pictures of the Toro dry, high elevation plateau terroir:

Enophile Rossidi 2020, 50% Rubin, 50% Syrah, Thracian Valley, Bulgaria

Intense and elegant aromas of ripe plums, violets, chocolate and spices such as clove, nutmeg and cinnamon. Christmas spice according to one Osher @ CMU student (I think Elinor but I am not sure).

In mouth, this wine had very evident oak aging. The ripeness of the fruits became more evident. The tannins were dusty on their way to silky.

I thought this wine was very elegant and by far the best in my Osher @ CMU course The Wines from the Balkans.

$19.99 13% Alcohol My Rating: 92 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED In Other Wines section (not Chairman's)

Domaine Alain Cailbourdin Les Racines 2022, Sauvignon Blanc, Pouilly Fumé

Clean and bright between linen and ivory color.

Shy aroma of lemon or grapefruit rind, fresh yellow apple, tea, wild herbs and Thai basil.

In mouth it was dry, mineral (almost salty) and acidic. Very refreshing. Light to medium body. Restrained but it grew in us over time … and sips. Medium bouquet duration. It preserved a feeling of cleanliness.

It ended up slowly opening its treasure chest and providing a joyful experience.

We tasted it at our French White Wine Tour class with OLLI PITT. Some of our participants detected some fizz in it. Some others did not. The minerality characteristic of these wines could have given that impression. Also, since the wine was aged on its own lees and not filtered it could have a production batch with some slight restart of the fermentation. In any case the feeling was lively, playful and pleasant.

$24.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 92 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED In France White section (not Chairman's)

Descendientes de Alvaro Palacios, Pétalos del Bierzo 94% Mencía, 3% other red varietals, 3% white varietals, Bierzo

Descendientes de Alvaro Palacios was founded 25 years ago by Alvaro Palacios, the rebel son and sibling from Rioja’s traditional bodega Palacios Remondo. Alvaro’s father sent him to Bordeaux to learn winemaking. He returned to La Rioja with new ideas such as reducing the yield of their vines to improve the concentration of their wines. That did not settle well with this traditional family and he finally left for Priorato. There he applied his learnings and created a mythical wine called L’Ermita, for some be best Spanish wine at the time. After that adventure he tried another one in El Bierzo creating Corullón. He is lately releasing 99 point wines with cost in the thousand Dollars. This Pétalos del Bierzo is the humblest of the family.

Red cherry color. Translucid. Both the aspect and the aroma seemed like a Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

Aromas of red fruits, flowers such as carnation, violets and rock rose with smoky, earthy and garrigue notes.

In mouth it is light but unctuous – very soft. Subtle and long finish. Elegant.

93+ pts. RP, 92 pts. JS

$31.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 92 pts.

RECOMMENDED A few bottles in Spain Section (not Chairman's)

El Goru , Monastrell 80%, Syrah 15%, Cabernet Sauvignon 5%, Jumilla

I felt scarred by the label but since I like Jumilla and it was very affordable and from a highly reputed winery I purchased it.

Aromas of ripe blackberry, chocolate and cinnamon or nutmeg.

Perfect acidity to compensate for the high alcoholic level and the ripeness of the fruit. Medium to big body with a plush structure full of dense, polished almost chewable tannins. Medium to long aftertaste asking you to pause and eat before the next sip. It also demands water to cleanse the palate once in a while. It is so powerful and intense!

With its ripeness, it reminded me of some wines from the best slopes of Lodi.

The addition of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon added complexity and helped it taste as an international wine. I thought it was a better quality / price ratio than its elder 100% Monastrell Infinito (also reviewed in this post).

92 pts. JS

$9.99 14.5% Alcohol My Rating: 91 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Alvaredos Hobbs 2020, Godello, Ribeira Sacra

The Ribeira Sacra is the canyons on the two largest Galician rivers Sil and Miño. Their slopes are covered with vineyards almost impossible to tender. See pictures from my July 2024 trip. Labor on these minimal and almost vertical vineyards is manual, very hard and sometimes risky. I have heard of some producers introducing drones to help out. Its wines are just different, both the white Godello as well as the red Mencía. Remote region worth visiting in a catamaran tour.

Paul Hobbs is an internationally recognized wine expert. He is known for breaking with tradition and exploring new ways based on his scientific focus. He felt enamored of this remote region and established a partnership in 2015 with Antonio Alvarelos to bring this wine to life.

Shy but elegant aromas of several fruits, including ripe lemon, but the most interesting characteristic was its minerality. The winemaker notes identified butterscotch and then I noticed it too. Also, aromatic herbs.

Medium acidity and body in an elegant and soothing envelope with medium to long finish.

I thought everything was tempered and subdued in this wine. The opposite of flashy. Restrained and elegant. I thought its price promised more than what I got but when taking into account the effort to tender the vines in this region I can understand it.

94 pts. WE

$27.99 ?% Alcohol My Rating: 91 pts.

RECOMMENDED A few bottles in Spain Section (not Chairman's)

See some pictures from Ribeira Sacra showing the small plots in the slopes of the canyon:

Wines of Illiria 2019, Vranac, Herzegovina

Floral aromas of violets and perhaps hyacinth. Fruity: ripe cherry but also nectarine and ripe strawberries. Herbal: thyme. Spicy: pepper. Alcoholic.

In mouth it displayed vibrant and coarse, almost sandy, tannins in an unctuous texture. It had such a dense body that it felt almost chewy.

The aftertaste was a little bit rough and burning in the throat. A pity because till then it was very fulfilling. Perhaps a bit pricey but worth it at least once because you don’t taste Vranac every day.

$18.99 13% Alcohol My Rating: 90 pts.

RECOMMENDED In Other Wines section (not Chairman's)

Kanonkop Kadette 2020, Cabernet Sauvignon, Stellenbosch, S. Africa

Very pleasant aromas of black currant, watermelon, strawberry juice, earth and cigar.

Bright acidity with medium to full body and dense velvety tannins. If any defect I thought I smelled a little bit of sulfide but it faded away soon. Decant it.

I thought it was an honest Cab from a stellar region at an excellent price.

It took time for me to get into South African wines and to tell you the truth, some of the Pinotage I started with did not do it to me. However, since Marti brought an excellent Cab from her trip in late 2023 I have tried more and I am enjoying them.

And Jan Stetler’s review, with his characteristic communication style, follows:

Opened and a glass poured...airing in bottle... Dark garnet color...many tears... Fragrant...classic cab nose...black fruits...rich, mature fruit...hints of herbs...refined and elegant...Nice! Medium to full bodied entry on the palate...dry...crisp acidity...mature tannins...good extraction (lower yields?)...rich, ripe fruit moves into a mildly tannic mid palate...delicious!...an excellent dinner wine...and a good value...

93 pts. JS, 90 pts. WS

$13.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 90 pts.

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Lapostelle Apalta 2021, 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 10% Carmenère, 7% Cabernet Franc, 6% Syrah, Apalta section of Colchagua Valley

I have enjoyed all products I have tasted from this winery, and this was no exception. The soils are sandy and loam with quartz gravel and are located in the Apalta section of Colchagua Valley, South of Santiago. The vines are grown biodynamically, the harvest is manual, and the grapes are selected through the Vistalys optical method (first time I learn about this). Their first growth Clos Apalta is one of the most acclaimed Chilean wines. Lapostelle was recognized by WE as the Best New World Winery of the Year in 2008.

Complex aromatic structure with blackberry, gooseberry and spices as well as nuts, chocolate and coffee from the precise oak aging of 70% of the wine for 12 months in 2nd and 3rd use French oak barrels.

In mouth it shows perfect acidity, medium to big body and velvety tannins. Pleasant aftertaste with no sharp corners and some depth.

$18.99 ?% Alcohol My Rating: 90 pts.

Château Cantegril 2019 Semillon, Barsac

Winemaker's notes: Floral and honeyed Barsac with aromas of honeysuckle, yellow nectarines, candied lemons and caramel. Full-bodied with a sweet, fleshy palate that’s balanced by fresh acidity. Nice lemon-pie notes at the end.

I would add apricot, pineapple, orange blossom, a touch of cinnamon/nutmeg and hints of brioche and baklava.

92 pts JS

$19.99 12% Alcohol My Rating: 90 pts.

Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Cuvée Silex Sec2022, Chenin Blanc, Vouvray

Color between melon and straw.

Aromas of golden apple and yellow pear at first but then herbal aromas took over. I thought of marjoram and ground yellow turmeric without discarding tarragon. Some custard bouquet from the fermentation in oak barrels came out later.

In mouth I could not sense the flint Vouvray winemakers claim as typical of the appellation but I felt some saltiness in the tip of my tongue and even after swallowing it. At our OLLI PITT class some detected a bit of sweetness. Unctuous from the aging on its lees. Medium body.

Long bouquet. Breathing after swallowing it the herbs came back through the retronasal aroma.

Overall comment: Sophisticated experience. A wine that was not expressive but with some focus I could detect many and diverse aromas just coming up subtly at their pace. Round and Elegant.

$21.99 13% Alcohol My Rating: 90 pts.

Penya 2022, Viognier, Côtes du Roussillon

Aromas of lemon, mango, chamomile and fennel. Very aromatic.

Medium body with an aftertaste of pastry shop.

This was clearly a French Mediterranean wine and Viognier seems to me their most noble and complex varietal in the region. I refer to it as the Chardonnay of the South.

This wine was recommended to me by Lisa who works for Vino Volo at the Pittsburgh airport. Say hello to her if you happen to be there. She will have good recommendations.

$9.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 89 pts.

Guidobono 2021, Nebbiolo, Langhe

Bright garnet translucid color.

Aromas of dark cherries, red licorice, red roses, blood, clay or possible wet brick, spices such as black pepper and clove, and dry Mediterranean herbs … possibly sage. A bit medicinal.

In mouth it showed lively acidity, dry with fine grained tannins in medium body completing the structure with medium unctuosity. Medium length aftertaste with some unpleasant acidity in the throat.

A good quality to price ration for a Nebbiolo.

94 pts. WE

RECOMMENDED

$11.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 89 pts.

L’Um (from Lungarotti) 2022, Sangiovese / Merlot, Umbria

Umbria is a beautiful Italian region dotted with medieval hill towns, lakes and the epitome of the Mediterranean inland views. See inserted a map and picture of the Lungarotti vineyards from their website. I am reproducing the winemaker’s notes because I agreed and lost mines:

Complex and warm aromas with notes of marasca and black cherries, brandied fruit, delicate hints of coffee, cocoa and sweet spices. The structure is supported by fresh acidity and harmonious tannins, while the finish hints at fresh red fruit, with persistent and pleasant softness.

$11.99 13.5% Alcohol My Rating: 89 pts.

Marqués de Cáceres Crianza 2019, 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha, 5% Graciano, Rioja

Rather dark color for a Rioja probably from this vintage which is considered an excellent one.

Aromas of shoemaker’s glue, ash, leather, cigarette smoke and dark cherry. The fruit is not the protagonist here and tertiary aromas prevail. Not atypical from Rioja.

In mouth it was too acidic in my opinion. Why do they do that in Rioja? Acidity is beneficial for aging but I purchase Crianza to drink in the short term. The tannins were still alive but on their way to silky. An invasion of cigarette smoke filled up my palate, throat and larinx as the wine warmed up in my mouth and I expelled air through my nose to detect the retronasal aroma. The closest I have been to smoking since I quite decades ago!

If not very good I’d say this wine was exceptional because of its unique characteristics. Try it and let me know if you did not detect the shoemaker’s glue, the earth and the cigarette smoke and I am getting crazy. If you detected them too also please tell me. I would like to find a kindred!

$16.59 13.5% Alcohol My Rating: 89 pts.

RECOMMENDED A few bottles in Spain Section (not Chairman's)

Domaine Vigneau-Chevreau, Organic Brut, Chenin Blanc, Vouvray

This dry sparkling wine had lively bubbles and happy aroma of ripe yellow lemons, croissant and perhaps quince paste. Mineral.

Perfect acidity and elegant texture. Medium body. Dry with a very small hint of sweetness. This is a “dangerous” wine because it can be consumed too quickly!

$19.99 12.5% Alcohol My Rating: 89 pts. Sparkling wine section in cases

Bostavan Pastoral, Cabernet Sauvignon, Moldova

This wine is sweeeeet! Pastoral means it was produced by the monks for use at Church. For sure they had a very sweet Lord. I appreciated some characteristics similar to a Port Rubi wine. Concentrated and very ripe red fruits like red currant with chocolate, mocha and caramel.

In mouth it was very dense velvety and viscous. Cloying, intense and delicious to a point of aggressiveness. It can be consumed in small doses throughout many days

If you like sweet wines, this is a must try for the price, and you will be supporting people’s livelihood in this small and poor country nested between Romania and Ukraine.

RECOMMENDED

$11.99 16% Alcohol My Rating: 82 – 91 (depending on your taste)

RECOMMENDED A few bottles in Desert Wine Section (not Chairman's)

Château Lafontaine de Genin 2022, Cabertnet Sauvignon (unconfirmed), Bordeaux

Although this wine has no appellation the winery is located in Entre-Deux-Mers and it has been owned by 3 generations. The owner is a master winemaker for other more renounce wineries.

Aromas of ripe raspberry and black currant. Fruity but a bit diluted in my opinion. Acidic and mild tannins with sour aftertaste.

This is a good wine for the price. My rating is consistent with that price point. I do not understand why a wine with such ratings was selling at that price.

WE 90 pts, JS 91-92 pts.

$8.99 14.5% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Marqués de Toro, Finca La Moura 2021, Mencía, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla

We tasted this wine during the Spanish Red Wine Tour at OLLI PIT. The following is my summary of our collective wisdom:

Appearance: Dark cherry color, clean, with intermediate legs abundance and viscosity

Aroma: Crushed dark cherry and blackberry, violets and carnation, bell pepper, thyme and white pepper. Subtle oak aging provided notes of vanilla, cedar/oak and mocha. Slight baguette undertones from the secondary fermentation.

Mouth feeling: mid-level acidity, tannins and body.

Comment 1: This was nothing outstanding but a well crafted wine with no defects and a good value.

Comment 2: Coming from a winery in Villafranca del Bierzo and single vineyard I wondered why this wine had no Bierzo denomination. I contacted the winery with no answer.

92 pts. WE, 91 pts. WS

$9.99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Conde de Valdemar 2019, 90% Tempranillo, 5% Mazuelo, 5% Garnacha, Rioja

This was one of my father’s wines to go o that we had it frequently during our Sunday family lunches. This winery has recently established the first Old World winery branch in Washington State. Very nice facilities and tasting room which is in my wish list of visits.

Clean and bright red cherry color.

Aroma of dark cherries with subtle notes of smoked food, pepper, coconut and vanilla. Amongst Rioja wines this one is modern but loyal to the light body soft/silky tannins style.

In mouth it was acidic with very soft/silky tannins in a light body. Medium length aftertaste.

90 pts. WS, 90 pts. JS

$10.99 13.5% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Norton 2022, Malbec, Mendoza

Aromas of black fruits and licorice.

Acidic with medium body and softened tannins.

A decent wine with no defects and easy to drink with no especial appeal.

What do you think, Inés.

92 pts. JS

$11,99 14% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

$12.99 13% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Buehler 2020, Chardonnay, Russian River Valley

Another one Sally enjoyed much and I just found pleasant and easy to drink.

Aromas of tropical fruits and possibly peach and pear complemented by vanilla and an almost undetectable touch honey from American oak aging.

In mouth it was unctuous and creamy (buttery as Kim would say) with acidity and alcohol level in balance. Moderately pleasant aftertaste.

91 pts. WE, 88 pts. WS

$13.99 13.9% Alcohol My Rating: 87 (Ricardo) 90 (Sally). Settled at 88 pts.

Coeur de Granit 2022, Gamay, Moulin-à-Vent

Aromas of ripe blueberries, dry red fruits and ash. Some depth and correct acidity. Silky tannins. Very light oak aging. Some bitterness in the finish and short and plain bouquet. However, this was much more serious than a typical young Beaujolais.

My notes and rating sharply disagree with the expert notes which assign it 93 pts and Best Buy at WE. We either had a different batch of this wine or I just fail to understand Gamay, which may be the case since that has happened to me often with wines from the Beaujolais region.

93 pts. WE

$14.99 ?% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Bernardius 2020, Chardonnay, Monterrey Co.

Sally enjoyed this wine a lot after several weeks in which I had subjected her to Loire and Balkan explorations. She relished the familiarity of a homey CA Chardonnay.

Aromas of pineapple, ripe yellow apple, some banana and cooking herb s between oregano and tarragon.

In mouth it is refreshing and unctuous. Dense body very soothing in tongue and throat. Not very complex but pleasant.

90 pts. VM

$14.99 14.2% Alcohol My Rating: 87 (Ricardo) 90 (Sally). Settled at 88 pts.

Finca El Origen Reserva 2022, Torrontés, Uco Valley

I am reproducing here the winemaker’s notes because I remember that I fully agreed with them and i lost mines:

A Torrontés of straw yellow color and greenish sparks. The initial intensity of white flowers, grapes and citrus peel gradually gives way to notes of white, tropical fruit like peaches and pineapples. The contact with lees makes the attack smooth and creamy. The wine’s long, pleasant and clean finish is freshened by its rich natural acidity. Great match for Thai food, curried dishes and fresh pasta.

I remain puzzled about South American wines identified as Reserva less than 2 years since harvest.

90 pts. JS

$14.99 ?% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts.

Château Beauchêne Blanc 2023, Clairette 25%, Grenache Blanc 25%, Roussanne 25%, Marsanne 20%, Bourboulenc 5%, Côtes du Rhône

Melon color. Abundant and thick legs.

Aromas of Lemon rind, citrus, melon, apple, ripe pear but mostly herbs like tarragon, cardamon, thyme, …

In mouth it was refreshing, mineral, herbal, unctuous although not very expressive. Short to medium length and soothing aftertaste probably due to the amount of glycerol.

$17.99 13.5% Alcohol My Rating: 88 pts. In White French section (non-Chairman's)

Domaine Castelnau Cuvee L’Etang 2023, Picpoul de Pinet

I thought this was a middle of the road very drinkable Picpoul. Interesting label. I did not capture any special notes. I will just provide the winemaker’s notes in here:

Green glints. The nose develops exotic fruits aromas as well as iodized notes followed by floral notes. The palate is strong on fruits with lychee notes.

$12.99 ?% Alcohol My Rating: 87 pts.

Benoit Gautier Brut Antique, Chenin Blanc, Vouvray

My bottle had almost no bubbles. I wondered whether this was a defect or purposedly crafted to achieve a petillant. Shy aroma of citrus. Dry with a little but noticeable residual sugar. Medium body towards unctuous.

I may not have understood this wine well or my bottle may have been in non-optimal condition. Beautiful label.

$19.99 12.5% Alcohol My Rating: 82 pts. Sparkling wine section in cases

Le Bois Doré 2023, Chenin Blanc, Saumur

I agree with the winemaker notes in the aromas of citrus and pineapple. However, I also found it foxy and diluted, young and simple.

It may be me. Please, I am open to other better educated opinions on this type of wine. Allen, Nicolas, what do you think?

$10.99 11% Alcohol My Rating: 81 pts.

3 Comments

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Guest

Oct 28

Rated 5 out of 5 stars.

Thanks so much for all the useful information, Ricardo! I really appreciate your effort and dedication. With so many wines in the stores, having this list is a blessing!

Edited

Oct 26

I always appreciate your insights! I learn so much, and it's great to have a list when I go to the PA store :-).

Thanks for the reviews and all additional info. Indeed you put much thought and a lot of effort into this, much appreciated.